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Jambon Persillé — Parsleyed Ham in Aspic

Burgundy

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I

Origin

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II

Description

Jambon persillé is a Burgundian charcuterie specialty in which cooked ham (Sus scrofa domesticus) is hand-shredded and layered with abundant chopped parsley (Petroselinum crispum) in a white wine aspic derived from the ham's own poaching liquor. Traditionally, a whole bone-in ham shank of 3–4 kg is desalted by soaking in cold running water for 12–24 hours, depending on the cure intensity. The ham is then poached in a court-bouillon of dry white Burgundy wine (Aligoté or Chardonnay, approximately 750 ml per 4 litres of water), along with calves' feet (2 split feet per batch for gelatin), shallots, garlic (Allium sativum), thyme, bay laurel, tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), and black peppercorns. Simmer at 85°C for 2.5–3 hours until the ham reaches an internal temperature of 72°C and the meat shreds easily. Remove the ham, strain the liquor through a fine chinois lined with cheesecloth, and reduce by one-third to concentrate gelatin and flavor. Degrease meticulously — chill the liquor and lift solidified fat from the surface. Adjust seasoning with white wine vinegar (15–20 ml per litre) and check the set by chilling a test sample. Hand-shred the ham into irregular pieces of varying size for textural interest. Combine 100 g of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley per kg of ham. In a glass or ceramic bowl, alternate layers of parsleyed ham with ladled aspic liquor at 30–32°C, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets. Refrigerate at 2–4°C for 12–24 hours for a complete set. Unmould and slice into thick wedges (15–20 mm). The cross-section should display a vivid mosaic of pink ham and bright green parsley suspended in a barely trembling, pale gold gelée.

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The Thread

—Polish zimne nóżki, a cold trotter jelly with shredded pork and vinegar
—Georgian muzhuzhi, a cold preparation of pork feet in vinegar-walnut gelée
—English jellied eels, a traditional aspic preparation using natural eel collagen
IV

Flavour Context

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