Desalting salt cod

The salting and drying of cod (Gadus morhua) was developed for the long voyages of the Atlantic fisheries, and it reached French kitchens through the ports and the Catholic calendar of fast days. Larousse Gastronomique treats morue as a staple of the coast and of Provence and Languedoc, where the desalted fish became the base of brandade de morue, of the aïoli of Lent and of the Basque and Béarnais preparations. The technique of soaking, which restores the fish to a state fit for cooking, belongs to the classical kitchen as the first stage of every salt cod dish.

Desalting is the controlled removal of salt from morue salée, the split, salted and dried fillet of cod, by soaking in cold water that is changed repeatedly. The fish is first rinsed under running water to remove surface crystals, then immersed skin side up in a large volume of cold water, in the refrigerator, so that the salt leaves the flesh by diffusion while the fish rehydrates. A thick central cut from the loin, the dos, needs longer than a thin piece from the flank, and the soaking commonly runs from twenty-four to forty-eight hours with the water renewed several times. The result is a pliant, translucent flesh that flakes in large leaves and retains a light seasoning, ready to be poached gently or prepared in brandade.

Desalted cod is eaten with olive oil, garlic, potatoes, and the vegetables of the aïoli, or with tomato, peppers and onions in the Basque manner. The firm, savoury flesh needs the richness of oil and the starch of potato to carry its remaining salinity. It is drunk with dry white wines of good acidity, such as those of Cassis or Palette, or with a dry rosé of Provence, whose freshness cuts the oil and garlic.