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Temulawak, the Javanese Curcuma Rhizome

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I

Origin

Temulawak (Curcuma zanthorrhiza) is a large-rhizomed relative of turmeric, native to Java and taken from there into the gardens of the archipelago. It belongs to the jamu tradition of Java, in which it is one of the best-known rhizomes, grown in house gardens and sold by the jamu trade in the form of fresh rhizome, dried slices and powder. In the Javanese tradition it is held to be a strong jamu, and it is used for particular occasions rather than casually; the tradition drinks it, and the cook and the jamu seller handle it with that respect.

II

Description

Temulawak is the rhizome of Curcuma zanthorrhiza, larger and thicker than turmeric Curcuma longa, with a deep orange-yellow flesh and a sharply bitter, camphor-like aroma that is plainer and less sweet than that of turmeric. It is sold fresh in knobs, or sliced and dried, or ground to a powder, and is used mainly in jamu, where it is peeled, sliced or grated, simmered in water and strained, then often sweetened with palm sugar and sometimes sharpened with tamarind Tamarindus indica.

III

The Thread

—Both treat a yellow Curcuma rhizome as a plant of the household medicine cupboard and the kitchen at once, taken as a drink or paste within a long tradition. Haridra is Curcuma longa and is used in cooking and ritual across India, while temulawak is a separate species with a harsher, more bitter flavour and a narrower place in Javanese jamu. Indian
—Both are warm drinks made by simmering a fresh or dried rhizome, taken by tradition on particular occasions and at home. Haldi doodh is built on milk and is soft and rounded, whereas temulawak is infused in water and carries a bitter, camphoraceous edge that palm sugar only softens. Indian
—Both are infusions of a Curcuma rhizome, drunk as a daily and occasional tradition and sold dried and ground for the purpose. Ukon is made from Curcuma longa and is mild and earthy, while temulawak is the more pungent and bitter of the two. Japanese
IV

Flavour Context

Temulawak is drunk as a jamu, usually warm, and is commonly sweetened with palm sugar from the sugar palm Arenga pinnata or with a little tamarind, because sweetness and acidity are what carry its bitterness. It is not drunk with a meal as a rule but as a separate drink, taken by tradition on its occasions, and the sweetener and the souring are set against the bitterness of the rhizome.

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