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Rafanata — Horseradish Frittata of Basilicata

Basilicata

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I

Origin

Basilicata — the rafanata is most strongly associated with the Matera province and the Carnevale tradition. Wild horseradish (rafano selvatico) grows in the Lucano uplands and is used in several preparations specific to the region. The Carnevale timing reflects the tradition of consuming all eggs before the Lenten fast.

II

Description

Rafanata is one of the most unusual frittata preparations in Italian cooking — a thick egg frittata strongly flavoured with grated fresh horseradish (rafano selvatico, wild horseradish), which grows throughout the Basilicata and Calabria uplands. The horseradish is grated raw into the egg mixture, producing a frittata with a distinctive sinus-clearing pungency and warmth. The heat of the horseradish softens considerably during cooking but the flavour remains unmistakable. It is a Carnevale preparation in the Matera area — made in the days before Lent, when eggs and strong flavours are traditional. The combination of mild egg and pungent horseradish is the surprise of Lucano cooking.

III

The Thread

—Eggs cooked with fresh-grated horseradish as a primary flavour — Polish cuisine's widespread use of horseradish with eggs (hard-boiled or scrambled) and the Lucano rafanata share the tradition of using fresh horseradish to transform an egg preparation; the horseradish-egg combination is a cross-European parallel Polish
—Fresh-grated horseradish used as a dominant flavour in a cooked preparation — the Jewish Italian tradition of chrain (grated horseradish) and the Lucano rafanata share the same horseradish-as-dominant-flavour tradition; both traditions are present in the Basilicata, which had significant Jewish communities in the medieval period Jewish · Italian
IV

Flavour Context

Rafanata is a frittata unlike any other in Italian cooking — the horseradish pungency arrives mid-chew, warming the back of the throat with a clean, sinus-clearing heat. The egg and Pecorino provide richness and mildness as counterpoint. Cut in wedges, it is simultaneously surprising and deeply satisfying — one of those preparations that makes you wonder why horseradish is not in more egg dishes.

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