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Lagane e Cicciari — Pasta with Chickpeas

Calabria

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I

Origin

Calabria and throughout ancient southern Italy. The laganum pasta is mentioned by Cicero and Horace in Roman sources as a flat pasta cooked with legumes — making this combination one of the oldest documented pasta preparations in history.

II

Description

Lagane e cicciari (lagane with chickpeas — cicciari is Calabrian dialect for ceci/chickpeas) is one of the oldest pasta dishes in the Italian record: lagane are flat, wide strips of unleavened pasta (no egg — just flour and water), documented in ancient Roman sources as laganum. Combined with chickpeas slow-cooked in water with garlic, rosemary, and chilli, then finished with a generous pour of Calabrian olive oil, this is a dish of bronze-age simplicity that has survived unchanged in the Calabrian countryside for 2,000 years.

III

The Thread

—The Roman version of pasta with chickpeas — Rome uses tonnarelli or short pasta; the Calabrian version uses the ancient flat lagane; both cook pasta in the chickpea water to achieve the unified, thick texture Roman
—Chickpea and pasta dish from the Greek tradition — the principle of pasta cooked in legume cooking water to create a thick, unified dish is shared across the Mediterranean cucina povera tradition Greek
IV

Flavour Context

The chickpea cooking water, enriched with garlic and rosemary, creates a pale, starchy broth that the pasta thickens into a sauce. The chickpeas add earthy sweetness; the chilli adds heat; the olive oil at the end provides richness and rounds the flavour. Simple, ancient, and extraordinarily satisfying.

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