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Sfogliatella Riccia Napoletana al Forno

Naples, Campania

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I

Origin

Naples, Campania

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Description

The baroque pastry of Naples: thousands of paper-thin layers of laminated lard pastry folded into a shell, encasing a filling of semolina cooked in water with ricotta, candied citron, cinnamon, and whole egg — the filling is compact and slightly grainy. The sfogliatella riccia ('curly') is distinguished from the frolla version by its shatteringly crisp, layered exterior that shatters on the first bite. Made in Via Toledo bakeries before dawn, eaten hot from the oven.

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The Thread

—Multi-layer lamination using fat — the French technique uses butter where sfogliatella uses lard French
—Paper-thin sheets of dough layered with fat and shaped around a filling — the Ottoman layered pastry tradition Turkish
—Lard-stretched dough pulled to translucency and layered — the Central European laminated pastry tradition Austrian
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Flavour Context

A thousand crisp shattering layers of lard pastry exploding around a warm semolina-ricotta filling perfumed with candied citron and cinnamon — the defining Neapolitan morning pastry

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