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Trippa alla Parmigiana con Formaggio

Parma

‹ Emilia-Romagna

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I

Origin

Emilia-Romagna — Parma province

II

Description

Parma's version of tripe — a dish that differs fundamentally from Roman trippa alla romana (tomato-based) or Florentine trippa (with mentuccia). The Parmigiana version braises tripe in a soffrito of onion, carrot, and celery with white wine and veal stock, then finishes the dish by layering the tender tripe in a terracotta dish with copious quantities of Parmigiano-Reggiano and baking until the cheese has gratinated and formed a crust. No tomato. The cheese is the protagonist — this is Parma, where Parmigiano is currency.

III

The Thread

—Both are Italian tripe preparations but the Parmigiana is white (stock-based, cheese-gratinated) while the Roman is red (tomato-based, mentuccia-finished) — the two great Italian tripe traditions Roman
—French tripe braised in Calvados and stock — the long-braised white tripe concept; the French version doesn't gratinate with cheese but shares the no-tomato approach French
—Lyon's tripe tradition is gratinéed or breaded — the French respect for tripe as fine dining material parallels the Parmigiana treatment of tripe with luxury cheese Lyonnais
IV

Flavour Context

Tender, braised tripe with neutral, clean veal broth flavour; the Parmigiano gratinata provides the salt, umami, and caramelised depth — without the cheese this would be unremarkable; with 30-month Parmigiano it becomes a dish that could only exist in Parma

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