Gubana — Friulian Sweet Rolled Pastry

The Natisone Valleys, Udine province, Friuli — the border area with Slovenia. Gubana is documented from at least the 15th century in Friulian records and was brought to the Dukes of Cividale as a festive gift. The Slovenian-Friulian border culture produced the dish.

Gubana is the festive sweet pastry of the Friulian Natisone Valleys — a coil of leavened dough encasing a filling of walnuts, raisins, pine nuts, breadcrumbs, cinnamon, grappa, lemon zest, and occasionally prunes or figs, wound into a snail-shell spiral and baked until golden. It is the definitive Easter and Christmas confection of the Friulian valleys and is brought to the table drizzled with more grappa, which is ignited and allowed to flame before slicing.

The walnut-raisin filling with grappa and cinnamon is warm, slightly boozy, and richly aromatic. The enriched dough has the flavour of a slightly sweet bread. After the table flambé, the crust has a grappa note that penetrates the outer layers. This is a festive pastry of considerable character — not delicate, but deeply satisfying.