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Gulasch alla Triestina

Trieste

‹ Friuli-Venezia Giulia

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I

Origin

Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Trieste, Austro-Hungarian culinary tradition

II

Description

Trieste's version of Hungarian goulash — arrived in the city when Trieste was the main port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Triestino gulasch uses beef (shoulder or cheek), sweet paprika, and red wine (rather than the Hungarian wine-free version), and is thickened with the breakdown of onion rather than flour. The proportions of onion to meat are almost 1:1 — this is not a mistake; the onion cooks down to near-invisibility over 3 hours and becomes the sauce. Served with polenta or bread gnocchi (Triestino tradition, not potato).

III

The Thread

—Direct origin — the Triestino gulasch is pörkölt adapted to Italian pantry; wine replaces the Hungarian water-only version, and olive oil may appear alongside lard Hungarian
—The Austrian Viennese goulash arrived in Trieste via the same Empire — both use more paprika and onion than the Hungarian original, both are served with bread or dumplings Austrian
—Central European goulash variations — the Bohemian version adds sauerkraut where the Triestino adds wine; both are adaptations of the Hungarian original through the Habsburg Empire Czech
IV

Flavour Context

Sweet paprika warmth, deep onion sweetness, tender beef; the sauce is a uniform red-brown with no visible vegetable — just sweet, rich, paprika-scented meat; comfort food from the edge of the Empire

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