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The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies
I
Origin
Lombardia
II
Description
Roe deer (capriolo) marinated in Barbera wine with juniper, cloves, bay and vegetables for 48 hours, then braised slowly until the meat is tender and the sauce is dark and deeply flavoured. A preparation of the Bergamo and Brescia Alpine foothills where deer hunting is part of the autumn tradition. The salmì technique — with blood or reduced wine as the thickening agent — is the same as for hare and wild boar.
III
The Thread
—Roe deer braised in red wine with blood finish — the French grand cuisine version of the same game preparation; more formal in presentation, identical in technique French
—Roe deer roasted then braised in red wine — the German version with juniper and cream rather than blood finish German
—The hare version of the same marinade-and-braise technique — same method, different game species Piedmontese
IV
Flavour Context
Dark, winey and deeply gamey; juniper gives resinous warmth; the reduced wine sauce is glossy and coating; the lean deer meat is tender and deeply flavoured — Lombard hunting season on a plate
Pillars V — VII
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