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Italian · V The Canonical Dishes · Lombardy

Cassouela Milanese — Pork Ribs and Sausage with Savoy Cabbage

Milan, Lombardia

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I

Origin

Milan and the Po valley, Lombardia — cassouela is the winter preparation of the entire Lombard plain. It is associated with Sant'Antonio Abate (January 17), the feast day of the pigs, when it is traditionally prepared. The preparation uses all the pork cuts from the seasonal pig slaughter.

II

Description

Cassouela (from 'cazzuola', the trowel-like spatula used to stir it) is the Milanese winter feast preparation — a braise of pork ribs, salsiccia, ear, tail, and skin with Savoy cabbage (verza) that is cooked in stages: first the pork pieces are browned; the cabbage is partially wilted; then both are combined and braised for 2-3 hours until the pork has rendered its fat into the cabbage and the cabbage has absorbed the pork's flavour. The preparation is heavy, rich, and deeply savoury — a cucina povera preparation that uses every part of the pig alongside the winter cabbage. Traditionally eaten after the first frost of the season when the Savoy cabbage is sweetened by cold.

III

The Thread

—Multiple pork preparations braised with cabbage in white wine — the Alsatian choucroute garnie and the Milanese cassouela are parallel winter pork-and-cabbage preparations; the Alsatian version uses fermented sauerkraut; the Milanese uses fresh Savoy cabbage; both combine multiple pork cuts in a single long braise Alsatian
—Multiple cuts of pork and sausage braised with Savoy or sauerkraut cabbage — the Polish bigos and the Milanese cassouela are structurally similar preparations; both are cucina povera winter braises using every available pork cut with cabbage; the Polish version often includes game and sauerkraut; the Milanese uses fresh verza only Polish
IV

Flavour Context

Cassouela in the bowl is dark and unctuous — the cabbage has completely absorbed the pork fat and taken on its colour and flavour; the pork ribs and sausages are tender and glossy. The flavour is intensely savoury, slightly sweet from the wilted Savoy cabbage, deeply porky from the multiple cuts. With soft polenta to absorb the sauce, it is the Milanese winter meal at its most satisfying.

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