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Tortelli di Zucca Mantovani — Pumpkin-Filled Pasta with Butter and Sage

Mantova, Lombardia

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I

Origin

Mantova, Lombardia — tortelli di zucca are the Christmas pasta of Mantova, documented from the 16th century in the Gonzaga court records. The sweet-savoury filling with mostarda di Cremona and amaretti reflects the Renaissance culinary tradition of Lombardia, where sweet and savoury were combined in elegant court preparations.

II

Description

Tortelli di zucca (tortelli filled with pumpkin) are the most celebrated pasta of Mantova — a sweet-savoury filled pasta with a filling of roasted butternut or maxima pumpkin, mostarda di Cremona (candied fruits in mustard syrup), crushed amaretti biscuits, Parmigiano Reggiano, nutmeg, and a pinch of salt. The filling combines sweet (pumpkin, amaretti), sharp (mostarda), savoury (Parmigiano), and aromatic (nutmeg) elements in a combination that preserves the medieval sweet-and-savoury tradition. The pasta is dressed with butter and sage, and the Parmigiano that finishes the dish counterbalances the filling's sweetness. It is a Christmas pasta specific to Mantova.

III

The Thread

—Pasta or dough filled with spiced pumpkin — the Austrian tradition of pumpkin-filled pasta pockets and the Mantovano tortelli di zucca share the pumpkin-filled pasta concept; the Austrian version is simpler; the Mantovano version adds the medieval sweet-savoury combination of mostarda and amaretti Austrian
—Sweet pumpkin filling combined with spice and nut in a pastry — the Moroccan tradition of sweet-spiced pumpkin pastillas and the Mantovano tortelli di zucca (pumpkin, mostarda, amaretti, nutmeg) share the sweet-savoury pumpkin filling principle; both preserve the medieval European-Arab sweet-and-savoury combination Moroccan
IV

Flavour Context

Tortelli di zucca dressed with butter and sage arrives on the plate golden and fragrant — the butter sauce simple enough to let the filling speak. The first bite opens onto the pumpkin sweetness, then the mustard heat of the mostarda arrives unexpectedly, then the bitter almond of the amaretti, then the Parmigiano sharpness. The combination is completely original and perfectly balanced. It is one of the most complex-flavoured pasta preparations in Italian cooking.

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