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Calcioni al Formaggio Marchigiani

Marche

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I

Origin

Marche (widespread)

II

Description

Sweet-savoury fried pastry half-moons from Marche, traditionally made at Easter. A short egg-and-lard pastry encases a filling of fresh pecorino (or ricotta), eggs, sugar, lemon zest, and sometimes saffron or cinnamon. Fried golden in lard or olive oil. The salt-forward pastry against the lightly sweet cheese filling is characteristic of central Italian pastry that straddles savoury and sweet.

III

The Thread

—Fried sweet pastry with a crisp exterior in the central Italian tradition Empolese · (Tuscany)
—Sweet fried dough with a slight cheese element at festival times Puglia
—Pastry encasing a cheese and egg filling, sweet-savoury balance Greek
IV

Flavour Context

Crisp, slightly savoury shell giving way to warm, lightly sweet melting cheese — the Easter pastry of Marche, designed to use the season's fresh pecorino

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