Lonza di Maiale con Vino Cotto e Alloro Marchigiana

Marche, central Italy

Vino cotto (cooked wine) — a Marche speciality made from must reduced by more than half to a syrupy condiment — is the defining ingredient of this pork loin braise. A tied pork loin is browned all over in olive oil and lard in a heavy casserole, then removed while the soffritto of onion, carrot and celery is built in the same fat. The loin is returned, surrounded by bay leaves and black peppercorns, then bathed in a mixture of vino cotto and white wine. The braise is covered and maintained at the lowest possible simmer for 90 minutes. The cooking liquid, enriched with the pork's juices and the vino cotto's natural sweetness, is reduced and mounted with cold butter as a sauce. The loin is sliced and served over soft polenta or boiled potatoes.

Sweet, slightly tangy vino cotto against savoury braised pork; bay and black pepper add aromatic bite; the mounted butter sauce provides silky, rich coating for the sliced loin.