Vincisgrassi al Tartufo Bianco di Acqualagna

Acqualagna

‹ Marche

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Origin

Marche — Acqualagna, Pesaro-Urbino province

Description

Vincisgrassi is Marche's version of lasagne — wide egg pasta sheets layered with a ragù of chicken livers and sweetbreads, béchamel, and Parmigiano — a 19th-century banquet dish named after the Austrian General Windisch-Graetz. The Acqualagna version (from the truffle capital of the Marche) adds shaved white truffle (Tuber magnatum, the same species as Alba's) over the finished vincisgrassi at service. The white truffle's intensity demands the dish be served immediately on hot plates — the first aroma when the truffle meets the heat of the pasta is the dining experience.

III

The Thread

—Both are baked egg pasta with ragù and béchamel — the Emilian version uses green pasta and meat ragù; the Marchigiana uses egg pasta and offal ragù with truffle as the luxury element Emilian

—Baked pasta with sweetbreads and cream sauce — the French tradition of combining veal offal with pasta and dairy in a baked preparation is directly parallel to vincisgrassi's composition French

—Baked pasta with truffle as the luxury element — Piedmontese lasagne uses porcini and truffle where vincisgrassi uses offal; truffle as the finishing luxury is a shared Northern Italian convention Piemontese

Flavour Context

Rich offal ragù with béchamel creaminess; the white truffle at service adds its extraordinary garlic-honey-earth complexity to a dish that is already substantial; eating this is a formal event, not an everyday meal

Pillars V — VII

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