Fusilli Molisani al Ferretto — Hand-Rolled Fusilli on the Iron

Molise — the fusillo shape is found throughout southern Italy but the Molisani claim the technique as central to their pasta identity. The hand-rolling on the ferro is the traditional domestic technique; the shape is now IGP-protected as 'Fusilli di Molise'.

Fusilli molisani are the hand-rolled pasta of Molise — made by rolling a small cylinder of pasta dough around a thin iron rod (il ferro, a knitting-needle-like implement) with a rapid rolling motion of the palm, then sliding the iron out to leave the characteristic helical shape. The technique requires practice: too much pressure tears the dough; too little and the helix doesn't form. Each fusillo is made individually. The traditional sauce is a long-cooked lamb ragù (ragù di agnello) with tomato, or simply tomato and basil in summer. The pasta shape is found across southern Italy (Campania, Calabria, Basilicata also make versions) but the Molisani call it their own.

Fusilli molisani have a textured, ridged surface from the rolling that catches ragù perfectly — each helix is a small vessel for sauce. With lamb ragù, the combination is the defining Molisani primo: the semolina pasta al dente, the ragù rich and slightly spiced with peperoncino, the sauce absorbed into every turn of the spiral.