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Signorelle — Molise Fried Dough Twists

Molise

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I

Origin

Molise — the cicerchiata/struffoli tradition is pan-southern-Italian, but the Molisano variation (signorelle) has regional character in the lard-and-wine dough. The preparation is documented throughout the former Kingdom of the Two Sicilies as the standard Carnival and Christmas fried dough.

II

Description

Signorelle (also called cicerchiata in Molise) are the Carnival and Christmas fried dough preparation: small balls of simple dough (flour, eggs, lard, white wine, sugar, and a pinch of baking soda) fried in lard until golden and puffed, then coated in honey and piled into a mound or formed into a ring — the honey sets as it cools, binding the fried dough balls into a sticky, honeyed mass that is broken apart at the table. The preparation is identical in concept to the Neapolitan struffoli and the Abruzzese cicerchiata, and represents the same ancient tradition of fried dough with honey as the primary winter festival sweet of the Apennine tradition.

III

The Thread

—Tiny fried dough balls coated in honey and piled into a mound for Christmas — Neapolitan struffoli and Molisano signorelle are the same preparation; different name, nearly identical execution; the fried-dough-in-honey-mound tradition is the primary Christmas confection of the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies Neapolitan
—Fried dough balls drizzled or tossed with honey — Greek loukoumades and Italian signorelle/struffoli share the ancient Mediterranean fried-dough-with-honey tradition; loukoumades are served individually as street food; the Italian versions are clustered into a communal display Greek
IV

Flavour Context

Signorelle are both festive and completely satisfying — the fried dough balls are crisp, puffed, and yielding; the honey coating sets slightly as it cools, making the cluster sticky and sweet; each ball has a slightly crunchy honey exterior and a soft interior. The whole mass tastes of lard, honey, and white wine — the three ingredients of the Molisano Carnival table.

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