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The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies
I
Origin
Piedmont
II
Description
Piedmont's most celebrated cold dish: veal (noce or scamone cut) cooked gently then sliced paper-thin and napped with a sauce of pureed tinned tuna, capers, anchovies, egg yolks, and lemon juice. The combination of land and sea — veal and tuna — is quintessentially Piedmontese and dates to the 18th century when the dish used tuna salt-packed in brine rather than oil. Served cold as an antipasto or secondo for summer. The sauce must be silky, pale-ivory, and coat the veal without completely obscuring it.
III
The Thread
—Both are cold veal dishes with emulsified sauces — Gribiche uses hard-boiled egg-based emulsion with herbs and cornichons, tonnato uses raw-yolk-and-tuna emulsion, both representing the tradition of masking cold braised veal with complex cold sauces French
—Both present thinly sliced barely-cooked protein with a strongly flavoured sauce — Japanese tataki uses grated daikon and ponzu, Piemontese uses tuna-caper-anchovy emulsion, both achieving the same effect of a delicate protein amplified by a complex condiment sauce Japanese
IV
Flavour Context
Delicate veal, silky umami-rich tuna sauce, with bright acid from capers and lemon — a uniquely refined surf-and-turf that is cooler and more cerebral than it sounds
Pillars V — VII
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