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Amazake — Sweet Fermented Rice Drink

Japan

‹ The Beverage Tradition

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I

Origin

Amazake is made throughout Japan and belongs to the household and shrine kitchen, where it is prepared in winter and handed out at New Year and Setsubun festivals. It stands in the same family of koji work as sake, mirin, miso and shōyu, all of which rest on the mould Aspergillus oryzae, and its method of working rice and koji together is of long standing in Japan.

II

Description

Amazake (甘酒, literally 'sweet sake') is a Japanese drink of saccharified rice, thick, milky white and naturally sweet. In its koji form, cooked rice is held warm with rice koji, the mould Aspergillus oryzae, whose enzymes convert the starch of the rice to glucose and maltose without any yeast fermentation, so that the drink contains no alcohol or very little. A second form is made from sake lees (sakekasu), the pressed solids left from sake brewing, dissolved in hot water and sweetened with sugar; it may carry a trace of alcohol. Amazake is drunk hot in winter, often at shrine gatherings at New Year and Setsubun where it is given out to visitors, and cold in summer. It is also used in the kitchen as a sweetener in place of mirin or sugar in marinades, sauces and confections.

III

The Thread

—Sikhye saccharifies cooked rice with malted barley, held warm until the starch turns to sugar, which is the same principle as amazake. The enzyme comes from germinated barley rather than from koji mould, and the drink is thinner, clearer and usually served cold. Korean
—Boza is a thick, sweetish grain drink of millet or wheat, made from a cooked mash and consumed as a seasonal winter beverage, as amazake is. It is soured by a lactic and yeast fermentation rather than sweetened by saccharification, so it is tart where amazake is sweet. Turkish
—Jiuniang, or fermented glutinous rice, is made by inoculating cooked rice with a starter that saccharifies the starch, closely related in method to koji amazake. It is a sweet, faintly alcoholic mash eaten or cooked into soups and desserts, whereas amazake is diluted and drunk, and stays at or below 1 per cent alcohol. Chinese
IV

Flavour Context

Koji amazake: sweet, milky, warm, with a subtle fermented grain depth underneath the primary sweetness. The flavour resembles diluted mirin or diluted sake-sweet without alcohol warmth. Sakekasu version: more complex, slightly funky, with sake's characteristic floral-yeast character. Both are warming, deeply satisfying, and distinctly Japanese.

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