Japanese Neri-Goma Sesame Paste and Tahini Applications · The Japanese Canon

I

Origin

Japan — sesame cultivation introduced from China and Korea; neri-goma production as a distinct condiment established during Japan's sesame oil culture from Heian period

II

Description

Neri-goma (練り胡麻) is Japanese sesame paste, made by roasting white or black sesame seeds and grinding them to a smooth, thick paste. It differs from Middle Eastern tahini in roast level — Japanese neri-goma is typically made from more deeply roasted sesame, producing a more intense, nutty, slightly smoky flavour. It is the base of goma-dare (sesame dipping sauce) used for shabu-shabu and cold noodles, and is incorporated into dressings (goma ae), wagashi fillings, and ramen tare. Black sesame neri-goma (kurogoma neri-goma) produces the dramatically black wagashi filling used in kurogoma daifuku and kurogoma soft serve — its flavour is slightly more bitter and earthy than the white version. The technique for goma ae (dressed vegetables with sesame) requires grinding the sesame paste further with sugar and shoyu in a suribachi (Japanese mortar) until the oils from the sesame are released and the dressing becomes smooth and cohesive — a coarse paste does not adhere to vegetables uniformly. Premium neri-goma separates on standing (oil rises to top) — this is a sign of quality (no emulsifiers); stir before use.

III

The Thread

—Near-identical product with different roast level; tahini is the direct equivalent in Middle Eastern cooking; compare roast profiles for flavour register Middle · Eastern

—Chinese zhima jiang is roasted more darkly than tahini but similarly to Japanese neri-goma; both are used in cold noodle applications Chinese

—Both Korean and Japanese traditions prize sesame in deeply ground/paste forms for vegetable dressings; suribachi technique parallels Korean stone grinding Korean

IV

Flavour Context

Intensely nutty, roasted, slightly smoky with natural sweetness; rich, coating mouthfeel; in goma ae produces a warm, embracing dressing; in goma-dare adds richness and depth to dipping contexts

Pillars V — VII

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