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Hyeonmi-cha (현미차)

Korea, nationwide

‹ The Beverage Tradition

I

Origin

Hyeonmi-cha is the tea of roasted brown rice, one of the grain infusions that belong to the Korean household table beside barley tea and corn tea. It grows out of the rice-farming economy of the peninsula, where the grain that fed the household also supplied the kettle, and it is made in home kitchens rather than belonging to any single region or house. It stands in the tradition of the plain, caffeine-free infusions served in place of water.

II

Description

Hyeonmi-cha is made from hyeonmi (현미), unpolished brown rice of the species Oryza sativa, whose bran layer is left on the kernel. The whole grains are dry-roasted until they turn from pale tan to a deep golden brown and a few kernels split or puff, then steeped or simmered in water. The infusion is clear, pale amber to light brown, with a toasted-grain fragrance. It is served hot or chilled, without sugar or milk.

III

The Thread

—Both use roasted rice steeped in hot water for a toasted, grain-sweet infusion. Genmaicha blends the roasted rice with green tea leaves and so carries tea astringency, whereas hyeonmi-cha is made from the grain alone. Japanese
—Mugicha, the roasted barley infusion, shares the principle of a caffeine-free roasted-grain tea drunk hot or cold in place of water. It is made from barley and has a drier, more bitter-toasted character than the rounder rice tea. Japanese
—Horchata de arroz is made from rice steeped in water and is likewise a grain-based drink served cold. It is made from raw rice, ground and sweetened with sugar and cinnamon, while hyeonmi-cha relies on roasting and is taken unsweetened. Mexican
IV

Flavour Context

Hyeonmi-cha is drunk through the meal in place of water, and afterwards to close it, alongside rice, grilled fish, jjigae and kimchi. Its toasted, faintly sweet roundness carries no tannin and no bitterness to compete with fermented and chilli-bearing dishes, so it refreshes the palate between mouthfuls and settles the richness of the table. Served cold in summer, it takes the place of a sweetened drink.

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