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Ssamjang — Wrapping Sauce Blend Ratios (쌈장)

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I

Origin

Ssamjang belongs to the Korean tradition of ssam, the eating of rice, meat and relishes wrapped in a leaf, and it is made on the household table from the two staple jang, doenjang and gochujang. The Korean chilli (Capsicum annuum) reached the peninsula only in the late Joseon period, so the doenjang and gochujang blend in its familiar form belongs to that later age, while wrapped eating is far older. The sauce is carried by the home cook, who blends it to the character of the family's own jang and to the meat on the table.

II

Description

Ssamjang (쌈장, 'wrapping sauce') is the compound fermented condiment that completes Korean BBQ wraps — a careful blend of doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and gochujang (fermented chilli paste), seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, green onion, and a small amount of sweetness (sugar, mulyeot, or Asian pear). The ratio of doenjang to gochujang determines the sauce's character: doenjang-forward (2:1) produces a deeper, more savoury, less spicy ssamjang used with fatty pork; gochujang-forward (1:1) produces a spicier, sweeter ssamjang preferred with beef. The blend requires adjustment based on the specific jang's character — a very salty doenjang needs less gochujang's salt contribution.

III

The Thread

—Both temper a fermented soybean paste with sweetness and aromatics so that it can be spread on food at the table or in the kitchen. Dengaku miso is cooked into a glaze for grilled tofu and vegetables, whereas ssamjang is mixed raw and takes its heat from gochujang and its sharpness from raw garlic. Japanese
—Both are sweet and savoury fermented bean condiments that season wrapped food, hoisin being served with Peking duck pancakes. Hoisin is smooth, cooked and sweet, while ssamjang is coarse, uncooked, and carries the pungency of garlic and the fragrance of sesame oil. Chinese
—Both unite chilli, oil, garlic and a savoury element in one condiment that is spooned onto plain grilled food to season and enrich it at once. Salsa macha is built on dried chillies fried in oil and is kept in the jar, while ssamjang rests on fermented soybean and chilli paste and is mixed fresh in small quantity. Mexican
IV

Flavour Context

Ssamjang is eaten with grilled pork belly and beef, rice, and leaves such as lettuce, perilla (Perilla frutescens) and cabbage, with raw garlic and green chilli alongside. A small spoonful seasons the meat, supplies the savour that plain grilled fat lacks, and its fermented depth is lifted by sesame oil and the sharpness of raw garlic. The fat of the meat is cut by the salt, chilli and leaf, and the wrap is eaten in one mouthful so that all of these meet together. It is drunk with soju or beer, whose cold and clean character clears the fat from the palate between wraps.

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