Ovos moles d'Aveiro

Aveiro, Portugal

Ovos moles — soft eggs — are the defining sweet of Aveiro on Portugal's Atlantic coast: a silky cream of egg yolks and sugar syrup, piped into edible wafer shells shaped like boats, shells, fish, and barrels to reference the city's lagoon and salt-panning heritage. The filling is pure — egg yolks cooked slowly with sugar syrup to a thick, smooth cream that has the texture of very soft set custard. Like fios de ovos, ovos moles originate in the convent kitchens of Aveiro, where surplus egg yolks from the wine-fining tradition were transformed into confections. The wafer shells are pressed into moulds and sealed with a damp finger — the humidity fuses the wafer and creates the characteristic slight softness of the outer shell.

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