Arroz de lingueirão: razor clam rice

Setúbal and Alentejo coast, Portugal

One of the most prized Portuguese arroz dishes — short-grain rice cooked in a concentrated shellfish broth with fresh razor clams (lingueirão), finished with cilantro and olive oil. The razor clam has an extraordinarily sweet, intense flavour unlike any other bivalve — it takes its name from the straight-edged razor it resembles — and its liquor is among the most concentrated of all shellfish cooking liquids. The technique requires the razor clams to be opened first to collect their liquor, which forms the base of the stock. The clam flesh is added back only in the final minutes to prevent overcooking. The dish should be loose — almost wet — with the rice carrying the concentrated shellfish flavour.

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