Tarta de Santiago

Santiago de Compostela, Galicia

The almond cake of the pilgrimage — marked on the surface with the Cross of Saint James stencilled in icing sugar. Ground almonds, eggs, sugar, and lemon zest: no flour, no butter, no leavening. The result is dense, moist, intensely nutty, and naturally gluten-free. The original recipe appears in records from 1577 as the standard cake of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, given to noble visitors. The quality of the tarta lives in the almonds: freshly ground, not pre-packaged almond flour, which has often been left to oxidise. The eggs must be separated and the whites whisked to soft peak before folding — this is what prevents the cake from being merely a sweet, heavy mass.

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