Gai Yang — Isaan Grilled Chicken / ไก่ย่าง

Isaan — the dish of the northeastern Thai table; every roadside stall in Isaan serves gai yang; it has spread throughout Thailand but its Isaan origins are unambiguous

Isaan grilled chicken (gai yang) is defined by the marinade and the charcoal technique, not by the cooking alone. The marinade: coriander root, white pepper, garlic, fish sauce, palm sugar, and a small amount of dark soy — pounded together and rubbed under the skin and into the flesh, then left overnight. The chicken is spatchcocked (backbone removed) or split and pressed flat, then cooked slowly over medium-low charcoal, turned frequently, for 30–40 minutes. The result is fully cooked through, deeply golden, with caramelised skin from the palm sugar in the marinade and no burning. Served with sticky rice, som tam, and nam jim jaew.

Gai yang's caramelised, pepper-and-herb skin is the textural and flavour combination that makes charcoal grilling irreplaceable — the specific char-caramelise-herb combination only happens at the interface of live charcoal heat and the marinade's sugars.