Phad Pak Bung Fai Daeng (Morning Glory Stir-Fried with Chilli and Yellow Bean)

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Water morning glory (pak bung — Ipomoea aquatica) stir-fried at extreme heat with garlic, fresh chillies, yellow bean sauce (tao jiew), oyster sauce, and fish sauce — one of the most dramatic wok preparations in the Thai street food canon and one of the few in which the vegetable's quality is the primary variable. Morning glory's hollow stems and tender leaves wilt rapidly and completely in 2 minutes of extreme wok heat — but they wilt to a bright, vivid green rather than a collapsed grey-green because the extreme heat instantly evaporates the surface moisture and begins the Maillard process on the outer surface before the interior moisture can steam the vegetable.

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