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French · Provence

Caviar d’Aubergine

Caviar d’Aubergine—a misnomer that has nothing to do with sturgeon roe but rather describes the glistening, jewel-like appearance of properly prepared aubergine purée—is Provence’s most elegant vegetable preparation, a silky spread of fire-roasted aubergine flesh folded with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. The technique centres entirely on the roasting method: whole aubergines are placed directly over a gas flame, on glowing charcoal, or under a blazing grill at maximum heat, turned regularly until the skin is completely blackened and the interior has collapsed into a soft, smoky mass. This direct-fire charring is non-negotiable—oven-roasting produces a pleasant but fundamentally different preparation that lacks the primal smoky depth that defines true caviar d’aubergine. Once the aubergines are collapsed (25-30 minutes over flame), the charred skin is peeled away while still hot, revealing the tender, smoke-infused flesh within. The flesh is placed in a colander and pressed gently for 15 minutes to drain excess liquid (this step concentrates the flavour significantly). The drained pulp is then chopped finely with a knife on a board—never processed in a machine, which breaks it into a baby-food purée—and folded with fruity olive oil (3-4 tablespoons), a crushed garlic clove, lemon juice, salt, and sometimes a pinch of cumin or a scattering of chopped herbs (flat-leaf parsley or mint). The finished caviar should have a rough, slightly chunky texture with visible strands of aubergine, glisten with olive oil, and taste profoundly smoky, sweet, and vegetal.

‹Swipe for the next dish›
ServesFour portions
TotalAbout 50 minutes
Sourced1of 7 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.

2 large
aubergines
whole, uncut
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
45–60 ml
fruity olive oil
extra-virgin
Your own market
1
garlic clove
crushed to a paste
Your own market
1
lemon
juice only
Your own market
1 pinch
ground cumin
optional
Your own market
1 small handful
flat-leaf parsley or mint
finely chopped; optional
1 tsp
fine salt
Your own market

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Place the whole aubergines directly over a gas burner at maximum heat, on glowing charcoal, or under a blazing grill at its highest setting. Turn them regularly with tongs so that every part of the skin is exposed to the flame. Continue for 25–30 minutes: the dish is ready to move forward when the skin is completely blackened all over and the aubergines have visibly collapsed and feel entirely soft when pressed.
2
While still hot, peel away the charred skin with your fingers, working over a colander set in the sink. Discard the skin entirely. Place the revealed flesh in the colander and press gently but firmly with the back of a spoon. Leave to drain for 15 minutes: the preparation is ready to proceed when no more liquid runs from the flesh and the pulp feels dense rather than sodden.
3
Transfer the drained pulp to a chopping board. Using a large knife, chop the flesh repeatedly — never a blender or food processor — until it is finely broken down but retains visible strands and a slightly rough, chunky character. The correct texture is evident by sight: discrete fibrous pieces, not a smooth paste.
4
Transfer the chopped flesh to a bowl. Add the crushed garlic, lemon juice, and salt. Fold in the olive oil — 45–60 ml — with a spatula until each strand glistens. If using, fold in the pinch of cumin and the chopped herbs. Taste: the caviar should be profoundly smoky, sweet, and vegetal, with the olive oil providing evident richness rather than a background note.
5
Set the caviar aside, uncovered, until it has returned fully to room temperature. Serve on a flat plate or in a shallow bowl with good bread. The caviar is ready when the smoke aroma rises freely and the surface glistens with olive oil — refrigerator cold mutes both.
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Aubergines charred over glowing hardwood charcoal; the smoke compounds from wood are more complex than those from gas and penetrate the flesh deeply. Oil of a single cold-pressed estate variety from Provence or Liguria.
02
Estate — Aubergines charred directly over a domestic gas burner at maximum heat, turned attentively. A named single-estate extra-virgin olive oil, fruity in character.
03
Market — Aubergines charred under the oven grill at its highest setting with the door ajar. A good-quality supermarket extra-virgin olive oil from southern France or Italy.
04
House — The minimum viable preparation. Grill heat, any decent olive oil. Avoid oven-roasting at any rung — it disqualifies the dish from being caviar d'aubergine altogether.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Touch. The aubergine yields completely under a light press of the tongs and the body has visibly deflated — the interior has fully collapsed into a soft mass.
◇Sight. The skin is uniformly blackened with no remaining purple; any patch of uncharred skin indicates the flesh beneath it will be raw and bitter.
◇Sight. After draining and chopping, the pulp holds a rough, fibrous texture with visible strands — it does not pool liquid when left to rest on the board.
◇Sight. Once folded with olive oil, every strand glistens; a dull or dry surface means more oil is required.
◇Where it lives or dies. The dish lives or dies in the charring: only direct contact with flame — gas burner, hardwood charcoal, or blazing grill — burns the smoke compounds into the flesh that define caviar d'aubergine; oven-roasting produces a fundamentally different preparation.
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VI

What to Pour

The pairing
Caol Ila 12 Year Old Single Malt
Caol Ila Distillery · Islay
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Whisky
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
Without alcohol
GT's Synergy Organic Kombucha — Gingerade
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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