P
Mexican
Corundas (Michoacán triangular tamales)
Corundas are Michoacán's iconic triangular tamales — made from plain masa enriched with tequesquite (natural sodium carbonate) or ash water, wrapped in fresh corn plant stalks (not corn husks) and steamed. The triangular shape comes from the folding technique with the stalk leaves. Corundas are served plain with crema, salsa, and queso fresco — the masa itself is the point, not a filling. They are a street food, breakfast item, and festival staple in Pátzcuaro.
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I
The Market List
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500 g
masa harina or fresh masa
for tamales; if using masa harina, prepared according to package directions
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
1 tsp
tequesquite
dissolved in 60 ml warm water and strained; or substitute baking soda
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
60 ml
water
warm, for dissolving tequesquite
Your own market
12
fresh corn plant stalk leaves (hojas de caña de maíz)
not corn husks; wiped clean; available at Mexican markets in season or dried from specialty stores
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
For service
150 ml
crema
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
200 ml
salsa verde
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
100 g
queso fresco
crumbled
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II
The Method
1
If using dried corn stalk leaves, soak them in warm water for 30 minutes until pliable. Fresh leaves require only wiping. The leaves must be fully supple before wrapping — a stiff leaf will split and the triangular shape will not hold.
2
Dissolve the tequesquite in 60 ml of warm water, allow the sediment to settle, then strain the clear liquid through a fine sieve. Discard the sediment. Work this alkalised water into the prepared masa, kneading until the dough is smooth, slightly tacky, and holds its shape without cracking at the edges — this is the alkalisation that gives corundas their characteristic texture and colour.
3
Take one corn stalk leaf and lay it flat. Place a portion of masa (approximately 60–70 g) at the base of the leaf. Fold the leaf around the masa using the traditional Michoacán triangular technique — folding one side across, then the other, to form a neat triangular parcel. The masa should be fully enclosed. This step decides the dish: a loose or misfolded parcel will unravel in the steamer and the corunda will lose its defining shape entirely.
4
Arrange the wrapped corundas upright in a steamer basket, folded side down, packing them closely so they support one another. Steam over steadily boiling water for 45–60 minutes. The dense plain masa requires longer steaming than standard filled tamales; replenish the water beneath as needed.
5
Test doneness using the dough-pull test: unwrap one corunda and pull the masa away from the leaf. The masa should release cleanly and completely, with no wet dough adhering to the leaf. If dough clings, rewrap and continue steaming in 10-minute intervals.
6
Serve the corundas immediately in their leaves, opened at the table. Accompany with crema, salsa verde, and crumbled queso fresco. The masa itself carries the dish; no further garnish is required.
From the canon — Salsa verde is built from tomatillos (Physalis philadelphica — not green tomatoes, an entirely different plant) combined with fresh green chiles (serrano or … Salsa verde — tomatillo preparation →
III
Quality Hierarchy
01
Reserve — Fresh masa ground from dried nixtamalised corn at a traditional molino; tequesquite sourced from a Mexican market or specialty importer; fresh, in-season corn plant stalk leaves harvested locally.
02
Estate — High-quality masa harina (such as Maseca for tamales) prepared with tequesquite dissolved in filtered water; fresh corn stalk leaves from a Mexican market.
03
Market — Standard masa harina prepared with baking soda in place of tequesquite — acceptable, with a slight difference in flavour and alkaline character; dried corn stalk leaves rehydrated before use.
04
House — Masa harina with baking soda and corn husks substituted for stalk leaves — the triangular shape is lost and the flavour is altered, but the plain enriched masa character remains.
IV
Sensory Tests
◇Touch. Masa is smooth and slightly tacky after tequesquite water is incorporated; it holds its shape without cracking at the edges.
◇Touch. Corn stalk leaves are fully pliable and do not resist folding — a stiff leaf will split during wrapping.
◇Sound. A steady, even hiss of steam is maintained throughout the 45–60 minute cooking period; silence indicates the water has run dry.
◇Touch. Dough-pull test: masa releases cleanly from the leaf with no wet dough adhering — the corunda is done.
◇Where it lives or dies. The triangular fold is where the dish lives or dies: a misfolded or loosely wrapped parcel will unravel under steam, collapsing the corunda's defining shape and with it its identity.
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VI
What to Pour
A fresh, lightly acidic Mexican agua fresca — hibiscus (jamaica) or tamarind — whose brightness offsets the dense alkaline masa; or, in a beverage context, a cool, lightly salted masa-based drink such as atole de guayaba where the grain register is welcome. Pure corn, slightly alkaline, satisfying — this flavour context is not served by wine; the traditional pairing is non-alcoholic.
The whole pairingPillar VII
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Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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