Cooking in
British Columbia
Mexican
Frijoles Quebrados
A brothy, rustic bean preparation from Hidalgo in which dried flor de mayo or pinto beans are roughly cracked before cooking — not whole, not pureed — so the starch bleeds into the pot and thickens the broth naturally. Toasted and soaked guajillo chiles blended with avocado leaves give the pot a deep, mildly fruity heat, while xoconostles (the tart, seedy fruit of certain Opuntia cactus species) or a substitute cut through the richness with acidity. This is a soupy, spoonable dish: the broth is the point. Diana Kennedy documents it as a household recipe from the state of Hidalgo, where it is eaten as a substantial course, not a side.
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Cook
I
The Market List
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1
pound (450 g) dried flor de mayo or pinto beans, roughly broken
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
3
quarts (3 liters) water
Your own market
3
xoconostles, peeled and seeded; OR 2 cactus paddles, cleaned; OR 1 tart apple, peeled and cored
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
½ medium
white onion, roughly sliced
Your own market
11
dried guajillo chiles (about 4 oz / 115 g), stemmed and seeded
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
avocado leaves (Persea drymifolia)
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Salt, to taste
Your own market
1 small
bunch cilantro, leaves and fine stems, roughly chopped
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
II
The Method
1
Break the dried beans roughly using a rolling pin, mallet, or two or three quick pulses in a dry blender. Pieces should be halved or thirded — not ground.
2
Combine broken beans and water in a large heavy pot. Bring to a boil, skimming the foam that rises vigorously during the first 15–20 minutes.
3
When the beans have cooked for roughly half their total time (approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on bean age), add the xoconostles or chosen substitute and the sliced onion. Continue simmering.
4
Meanwhile, toast the guajillo chiles on a dry comal or skillet over medium heat (160–170°C / 320–340°F) for about 20–30 seconds per side until fragrant and slightly darkened. Do not scorch. Transfer to a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 20 minutes.
5
Drain the chiles (reserving soaking liquid if it is not bitter). Blend with the avocado leaves and enough water or soaking liquid to form a smooth paste. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing firmly.
From the canon — Persea americana is a large-canopied tree of the laurel family, native to the highland valleys of central Mexico and Guatemala, with cultivation extending ac… Avocado →
6
When the beans are fully tender and the broth has body, stir in the strained chile mixture. Simmer together for 15 minutes. Season with salt.
7
Add the chopped cilantro in the final 2 minutes of cooking.
8
Serve in deep bowls with generous broth. Warm tortillas alongside.
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