Korean
Gamja-Ongsimi — Potato Dumpling Soup from Gangwon (감자 옹심이)
Gamja-ongsimi (감자 옹심이) is the Gangwon province highland soup — rough-surfaced potato dumplings (옹심이, small spheres made from grated raw potato starch) simmered in an anchovy broth with kimchi, courgette, and green onion. The technique is specific to the region: raw potatoes are grated, squeezed of liquid, and the starch allowed to settle from the extracted liquid and recombined with the grated potato — this double-starch technique produces dumplings with a distinctive gelatinous-chewy exterior and soft potato centre unlike any other dumpling tradition. The rough, uneven surface of hand-shaped ongsimi holds the broth differently than smooth-surfaced dumplings.
‹Swipe for the next dish›
Four not yet within reach.
How the 4 are reached
- Not yet within reach
- 4 · dried anchovies, starchy (mealy) potatoes, kimchi, green onions
I
The Market List
The benchmark for each ingredient, and who stocks it near you. Tap a stockist to go straight to the product.
For the anchovy broth
1.5 litres
water
Your own market
30 g
dried anchovies
heads and innards removed
Origin · KoreaNot yet within reach of Maple Ridge · each reach is counted
For the ongsimi dumplings
800 g
starchy (mealy) potatoes
분질감자 variety or equivalent high-starch potato, peeled
Origin · FranceNot yet within reach of Maple Ridge · each reach is counted
1 tsp
fine salt
Your own market
For the soup
150 g
kimchi
cut into 3 cm pieces
Origin · KoreaNot yet within reach of Maple Ridge · each reach is counted
1
courgette
halved lengthways and sliced into half-moons, 5 mm thick
Your own market
3
green onions
sliced on the diagonal
Not yet within reach of Maple Ridge · each reach is counted
1 tsp
fine salt
to season broth
Your own market
Within reach counts in town, delivered, shipped and the nearest city. A staple counts once it has a local seller. Charted from each shop's own pages; not yet vouched by a cook who shops here.
The larder of Maple Ridge →II
The Method
1
Combine the dried anchovies and water in a pot, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook for 10 minutes — a longer steep would pull bitterness from the heads and gut cavity into the broth. Remove and discard the anchovies. The finished broth should be pale gold, faintly saline, and carry a clean marine smell without bitterness.
2
Grate the peeled potatoes on the finest grater surface into a large bowl, then transfer in batches to a clean cloth and squeeze firmly over a second bowl, collecting all extracted liquid — squeezing hard enough to leave the grated potato almost dry gives the dumplings body so they hold their shape in the broth. Set the squeezed potato aside and allow the extracted liquid to rest undisturbed for 5–10 minutes until the white starch has visibly settled as a pale sediment at the base of the bowl.
3
Pour off and discard the clear water above the settled starch, leaving only the dense white sediment, then fold this recovered starch back into the squeezed grated potato — returning it binds the mixture from within so the dumplings stay whole as they cook rather than shedding into the broth. Add 1 tsp salt and combine with a light hand, folding only, never kneading, until the mass just holds together; it should feel dense and cohesive, not paste-like.
4
Take roughly 20 g of the potato mixture and roll it between both palms into a rough sphere approximately 2.5 cm in diameter, leaving the surface as it comes from your hands rather than smoothing it — the natural unevenness catches and holds the broth once the dumpling is in the bowl. Repeat with the remaining mixture.
5
Return the anchovy broth to a steady simmer over medium heat and add the kimchi and courgette, simmering for 3 minutes until the courgette has softened slightly at its edges but retains a pale green colour and faint resistance — stopping at this point keeps it from going slack and losing its texture against the soft dumplings. The broth will have taken on a faint sour warmth from the kimchi.
From the canon — Kimchi (baechu kimchi — napa cabbage kimchi) is Korea's foundational fermented condiment — salted napa cabbage packed with a paste of gochugaru (Korean red p… Kimchi →
6
Lower the shaped ongsimi one by one into the simmering broth so they do not knock together and break — they will sink immediately, and after 3–5 minutes they will rise and float at the surface, which is your sign that the centres are cooked through. Stir gently once during cooking to prevent the dumplings from settling and sticking to the base of the pot. The broth will carry a warm, slightly starchy, earthy fragrance — the characteristic smell of the soup.
7
Add the green onion, season the broth with salt, stir once, and remove from the heat. The ongsimi should be gelatinous-chewy at the exterior and soft at the centre when pressed or bitten.
III
Quality Hierarchy
01
Reserve — Highland Korean 분질감자 (mealy potato) in season, hand-made well-fermented kimchi from whole napa cabbage, and naturally dried small Korean anchovies (국물용 멸치) reserved for stock.
02
Estate — Any named high-starch potato variety (Russet, King Edward) from a known grower, house-made or artisan kimchi, and quality dried anchovies from a Korean or Japanese supplier.
03
Market — Supermarket high-starch potatoes, commercially produced kimchi of good acidity, and standard dried anchovies from an Asian grocery.
04
House — Any floury potato to hand, store-bought kimchi of any age, and a dashi or mild fish stock substituted for anchovy broth where dried anchovies are unavailable.
IV
Sensory Tests
◇Sight. White starch has settled as a visible dense sediment at the base of the bowl, clearly separated from the clear water above, before recombination.
◇Touch. The combined potato-starch mixture holds its shape when pressed into a ball without crumbling or sticking to the palms like paste.
◇Sight. Ongsimi rise and float freely at the surface of the broth, signalling that the starch is fully cooked through.
◇Smell. The finished soup carries a warm, starchy, earthy fragrance from the cooked potato combined with the savoury-sour anchovy-kimchi broth.
◇Where it lives or dies. The starch must be allowed to settle from the extracted potato liquid and recombined with the squeezed grated potato — without this double-starch step the dumplings lack a binder and dissolve in the broth.
Pillar V
Cross-cuisine parallels are part of membership.
The dishes this one teaches you, across the cuisines — on every recipe.
Enter · from $49 a year
VI
What to Pour
The pairing
Baijiu
From South Australia
Nothing from South Australia holds against this yet.
Without alcohol
No pour without alcohol holds against this yet.
Why each one works is part of membership — Enter · from $49 a year →
The whole pairingPillar VII
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
Enter · from $49 a year
The working kitchen