Cooking in
British Columbia
Korean
Gat Kimchi — Mustard Leaf Kimchi (갓김치)
Gat kimchi uses gat (갓, Brassica juncea var. integrifolia), the broad, dark-green mustard leaf grown extensively in Jeolla province, particularly around Yeosu and Gwangyang. The leaf's natural mustard compounds create a distinctive peppery bitterness that intensifies dramatically during fermentation, transforming into a complex, almost wasabi-like heat layered beneath the gochugaru. Yeosu gat kimchi is considered the benchmark; the maritime microclimate and specific variety grown there produce a distinctive mineral quality from the sea air. Fully fermented gat kimchi is one of Korea's most potent fermented side dishes.
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I
The Market List
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500 g
gat (갓, Korean mustard leaf, Brassica juncea var. integrifolia)
Yeosu-grown where possible; broad dark-green leaves
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
20 g
coarse sea salt
for wilting
Your own market
For the paste
40 g
gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
coarse grind
Origin · KoreaChoose your town to see who stocks it →
30 g
saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp)
roughly chopped
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
10 g
garlic
minced
Your own market
5 g
fresh ginger
minced
Origin · New ZealandNot yet stocked in British Columbia
10 ml
fish sauce
Your own market
Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.
II
The Method
1
Trim the gat, removing any yellowed or damaged leaves, then cut into 5–6 cm lengths, keeping stems and leaves together. Scatter the coarse sea salt over the leaves and turn gently to distribute, leaving them to wilt for no more than 1 hour — the salt draws moisture from the tissue so the leaves soften without collapsing, and the stems retain that faint resistance that tells you they have not gone slack. Rinse briefly under cold water, drain, and press lightly to remove excess moisture; do not wring, or the stems will bruise and weep during fermentation.
2
Combine the gochugaru, saeujeot, garlic, ginger, and fish sauce in a bowl and mix to a rough, cohesive paste. Work the saeujeot in thoroughly so its brine is evenly absorbed by the dry flakes rather than pooling at the bottom of the bowl, which would give you an uneven saltiness once the paste meets the leaf. The paste should be deeply red and carry a pungent, saline smell — bold enough to meet the mustard compound intensity of the leaf.
From the canon — Saeujeot (새우젓) is tiny whole shrimp (primarily Acetes chinensis, the small white shrimp from the Yellow Sea) preserved in salt at a 1:3 shrimp-to-salt ratio … Saeujeot — Salted Fermented Shrimp (새우젓) →
3
Add the drained gat to the paste and, working with gloved hands, coat every leaf and stem thoroughly, pressing the paste into the cut surfaces so the seasoning grips the exposed interior of each stem rather than sitting only on the outer skin. This is where the dish lives or dies: the coating must be generous and even — sparse application leaves the mustard compounds unanchored, and the fermented flavour will be flat rather than the layered gochugaru heat and mustard bite that defines Yeosu gat kimchi.
4
Pack the dressed gat tightly into a clean, non-reactive container, pressing down firmly to eliminate air pockets so that the leaves ferment in their own liquid rather than drying out against exposed air. Seal and leave at room temperature for 2–3 days; the kimchi is fermenting correctly when bubbles appear at the surface and the container exhales a sharp, sour-pungent smell when opened.
5
Transfer to the refrigerator, where the cold slows fermentation so the bitter mustard compounds mellow and integrate gradually rather than tipping into sharpness. The kimchi is ready to eat after a minimum of 1 week of refrigeration; to assess readiness, press a leaf lightly with a fingertip — it should yield without collapsing and release a faint mustard aroma beneath the fermentation smell.
III
Quality Hierarchy
01
Reserve — Yeosu-grown gat from the specific maritime cultivar of Jeolla-do, in season: the mineral quality from the sea-air microclimate is irreplaceable, and the glucosinolate intensity of this variety drives the wasabi-like fermentation character.
02
Estate — Korean gat sourced from another Jeolla-do growing area — Gwangyang-gun or adjacent coastal zones — retaining the broad dark-green leaf and sufficient sulphur-compound intensity for correct fermentation.
03
Market — Korean gat of unspecified regional origin, available at Korean grocery suppliers: adequate pungency for the dish, though the mineral dimension of the coastal terroir will be absent.
04
House — Standard supermarket mustard greens (Chinese variety or gai choi) lack the specific sulphur compounds that produce gat kimchi's signature bite during fermentation.
IV
Sensory Tests
◇Touch. After salting, leaves yield to gentle pressure while stems retain faint resistance — the salting period is complete and no further wilting is needed.
◇Smell. After 2–3 days at room temperature, a sharp, sour-pungent smell rises when the container is opened, indicating active fermentation.
◇Touch. After refrigeration, a pressed leaf yields without falling apart and releases a faint mustard aroma beneath the fermentation smell — the kimchi is ready.
◇Where it lives or dies. The paste coating must be generous and even at the point of dressing — sparse application leaves the mustard compounds unanchored, producing a flat result rather than the sequential three-layered heat the dish requires.
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VI
What to Pour
The pairing
Shochu
From British Columbia
Ella Premiere Sparkling Brut Rosé (NV)
Maverick Estate Winery · Golden Mile Bench
Maverick Estate Winery · Oliver →Sparkling wine
Without alcohol
Traditional
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The whole pairingPillar VII
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The working kitchen
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