Japanese Yudofu: Winter Tofu in Clear Broth

Yudōfu (湯豆腐, 'hot water tofu') is perhaps the purest expression of the Japanese philosophy that the finest ingredient, treated with maximum simplicity, constitutes the finest dish. A strip of kombu is placed in a clay pot (donabe) of cold water; the pot is brought to a gentle simmer on a small charcoal or gas burner at the table; and large, thick blocks of fresh tofu (traditionally the slightly firmer Kyoto tofu, kyo-dofu) are added and warmed until just heated through — approximately 2–3 minutes. The tofu is lifted from the pot and dipped in a condiment tray: fine ponzu or light soy sauce, katsuobushi shavings, green onion rings, grated fresh ginger, and occasionally momiji-oroshi (grated daikon with chilli). The quality differential is entirely in the tofu: premium yudōfu restaurants in Kyoto's Nanzenji area source tofu made daily from specific soybean varieties, with a high soy-to-water ratio producing a richer, denser, and more complex flavoured product than commercial tofu. The experience of eating yudōfu is an education in appreciating quality through absence — there is nowhere for an inferior ingredient to hide. Yudōfu is the definitive winter dish at Nanzenji's temple restaurants.