Kimchi Jjigae (Kimchi Stew)

Kimchi jjigae — the stew made from aged kimchi — is the preparation that most Koreans consider the essential comfort food of their cuisine: deeply flavoured, slightly sour, spicy, and rich with pork, tofu, and the complex fermentation character of old kimchi. The key insight is that old, well-fermented kimchi — the kind that's been in the back of the refrigerator for months and is too sour to eat fresh — makes the best jjigae. The acidity from extended fermentation breaks down slightly during cooking, mellowing from sharp sourness to a complex, rounded tang that forms the backbone of the stew. Fresh kimchi makes a pale, underdeveloped jjigae; aged kimchi makes an extraordinary one. Pork belly or pork shoulder (fatty cuts that enrich the broth) and soft tofu are the standard additions; the dish is simmered until the kimchi is completely soft and the pork is yielding.