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Corsican

Merlu Corse en Civet — White Fish Civet with Maquis Herbs

Civet technique applied to Merluccius merluccius (European hake) in a red-wine braising liquid. Fish cut in thick steaks (4cm), seared in Olea europaea, then braised 12 minutes in concentrated Niellucciu-based red wine reduction with Allium sativum, Mentha, bay leaf, Porcu Nustrale lardons, and island tomatoes. A fish dish that reads as a game dish — dark, intense, herb-driven. Served over Pulenda or alongside Pain de Châtaigne.

‹Swipe for the next dish›
ServesFour portions
Sourced1of 10 in BC
Cook
I

The Market List

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4 × 200 g
European hake (Merluccius merluccius)
cut in steaks 4 cm thick
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
150 g
Porcu Nustrale lardons
cut into batons
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
500 ml
Niellucciu-based red wine
for reduction
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
3 cloves
Allium sativum (garlic)
peeled and lightly crushed
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
250 g
island tomatoes
roughly chopped
1 handful
Mentha (mint)
leaves picked
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
2
bay leaves
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
30 ml
Olea europaea (olive oil)
for searing
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Optional, at service
20 g
Poutargue râpée (grated Corsican bottarga)
grated finely over finished dish
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
To serve
400 g
Pulenda or Pain de Châtaigne
prepared separately
Not yet stocked in British Columbia

Each tap is counted, so the stockist sees the demand Provenance sends them.

II

The Method

1
Place the lardons in a wide, heavy braising pan over medium heat. Render until the fat runs freely and the batons are golden at the edges. Remove the lardons and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pan. The fat should coat the base without pooling.
2
Add the crushed garlic and chopped tomatoes to the lardon fat. Sweat over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse and the garlic softens without colouring. The mixture should be jammy and fragrant.
3
Pour in the Niellucciu-based red wine. Add the bay leaves. Raise the heat and reduce the liquid by half, uncovered, until the surface darkens and the raw wine smell gives way to a concentrated, slightly sweet aroma. This is where the dish lives or dies: wine added unreduced carries its full tannin load into the braise and no subsequent step can correct it.
4
Return the lardons to the pan. Lower the heat to a steady simmer. In a separate pan, heat the olive oil over high heat until shimmering. Sear the hake steaks 90 seconds per side — colour only, not through. The steaks should show a firm, mahogany crust while the interior remains raw.
5
Lay the seared steaks into the braising liquid. Scatter the mint leaves over and around the fish. Cover and braise at a gentle simmer for exactly 12 minutes. The steaks are done when they hold their form intact, resist gentle pressure, and the braising liquid has deepened to a dark, game-like red. Do not exceed 12 minutes.
6
Lift the fish steaks carefully onto warmed plates. If a more refined sauce is required, strain the braising liquid into a small saucepan and reduce further over high heat until it coats a spoon, then spoon over the fish. Finish with grated poutargue râpée if using. Serve immediately alongside Pulenda or Pain de Châtaigne.
From the canon — Pulenda is the defining dish of Corsican chestnut cuisine — a stiff polenta made from farine de châtaigne corse and water, cooked in a copper or iron cauldro… Pulenda — Chestnut Polenta: The Historical Staple of the Corsican Interior →
III

Quality Hierarchy

01
Reserve — Wild-caught Merluccius merluccius from Corsican inshore waters; Porcu Nustrale lardons from a named Corsican producer; Niellucciu from a single-domaine estate bottling; Nepita (Calamintha nepeta) in place of mint for full maquis character; poutargue râpée from Corsican grey mullet.
02
Estate — Line-caught Atlantic hake of 2–3 kg; artisan Niellucciu-based wine; good-quality pancetta tesa as substitute for Porcu Nustrale; fresh mint leaves; San Marzano or ripe Provençal tomatoes.
03
Market — Supermarket hake steaks, skin on; a robust Corsican or southern French red (Grenache-dominant acceptable); smoked lardons; tinned whole plum tomatoes, well-drained; dried mint used sparingly.
04
House — Gilthead bream (Sparus aurata) steaks as fallback firm-fleshed fish; any dry, tannic southern French red; standard smoked bacon lardons; passata; mint from a pot.
IV

Sensory Tests

◇Sight. Braising liquid is dark red; fish steaks remain intact with visible sear marks — not broken or pale
◇Smell. Game-like depth with mint and red wine on approach; no raw wine volatility
◇Touch. Steaks offer firm resistance to gentle finger pressure; no flaking or softness
◇Where it lives or dies. The wine must be reduced by half before the fish enters the pan; tannin bitterness absorbed into the steaks during the braise cannot be corrected.
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VI

What to Pour

A Niellucciu-based Corsican red, served slightly cool — the same grape as the braising wine ties the glass to the sauce. The density of the reduction and the lardon fat demand a wine with firm tannin and dark-fruit character; a light red would be overwhelmed.

The whole pairing
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