II
The Method
1
Rinse the rice under cold water, working the grains gently, until the water runs nearly clear. Combine with 660 ml cold water in a heavy pot; bring to the boil uncovered, then reduce to the lowest possible heat, cover tightly, and cook for 12 minutes. Remove from heat and rest, still covered, for 10 minutes. The rice is ready when each grain is distinct, fully swollen, and slightly firmer than standard eating rice.
2
While the rice rests, prepare fillings. For sake: rub the salmon fillet with salt and grill on both sides until the flesh is opaque and the surface is lightly coloured; cool briefly and flake coarsely, removing all bones. For tuna-mayo: combine drained tuna and Japanese mayonnaise, ensuring the mixture is compact and not wet. For
umeboshi: pit and set aside whole or broken. The filling must hold its shape and carry no excess moisture — a wet filling will prevent the onigiri from sealing.
3
Transfer the hot rice to a wide bowl. Working immediately — cold rice will not bind — wet both hands thoroughly with cold water and salt them generously. Take one portion of rice (approximately 150 g). Cup it in one palm and press a well into the centre with the thumb of the other hand. Place the chosen filling in the well. Fold the rice up and around the filling to enclose it completely. This is where the dish lives or dies: the filling must be fully sealed before any shaping begins, or the onigiri will fracture under compression.
4
Using three deliberate compressions — and no more — shape the enclosed rice ball into a triangle (sankaku) by forming a V with the dominant hand's thumb and forefinger while the other hand cups the base and applies gentle counter-pressure. Rotate 90 degrees and repeat; rotate again and compress the final face. The finished onigiri should yield slightly to pressure, indicating air pockets remain within. A ball that feels uniformly hard has been over-compressed.
5
Re-wet and re-salt hands between each rice ball without exception. Shape the remaining seven portions in the same manner, replenishing salt at every interval. The outer surface of each finished onigiri should carry a faint, even sheen of salt moisture — visible on the rice surface — which provides the primary seasoning of the rice.
6
Wrap each onigiri with a half-sheet of nori at the moment of serving for a crisp contrast, or wrap in advance and allow the nori to soften against the rice — both are established practice. The nori is correctly applied when it adheres without slipping and covers the base third of the triangle, leaving the apex uncovered for handling.