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Panuchos Campechanos — Campeche-Style Dogfish Tacos

A Campeche variant of the classic panucho, this double-tortilla taco sandwiches Cazón frito — fried dogfish shark — between two bean-smeared corn tortillas, sealed and fried as a single unit until completely crisp. Where the standard panucho hollows out a single tortilla and stuffs it, the campechano builds a package: beans face inward, the filling locked at the centre. The result is denser and more substantial than its Yucatecan cousin, with a crackling shell that gives way to layers of earthy black bean and flaked, seasoned shark. Cebollas encurtidas — quick-pickled red onion — cut the fat of the fried exterior. The dish belongs to the Gulf coast fishing culture of Campeche state, where dogfish has been a staple protein for centuries.

The recipe is being written into the canon.

I

Quality Hierarchy

01
RESERVE: Fresh masa ground same day from dried, nixtamalized field corn; Cazón sourced whole and fried to order; cebollas pickled overnight in naranja agria (Citrus aurantium)
02
STANDARD: Quality masa harina such as Maseca Gold rehydrated to correct consistency; Cazón purchased pre-cleaned but fried in-house; cebollas pickled minimum 2 hours
03
ACCEPTABLE: Masa harina standard grade; pre-cooked shark reheated carefully; red onion pickled briefly in lime juice as a substitute for bitter orange
II

Sensory Tests

◇Cooked tortilla: surface is matte, not shiny; lifts from the comal without sticking and feels pliable but not damp
◇Bean spread: holds the impression of the spatula without slumping — if it runs, reduce further before assembling
◇Sealed panucho before frying: edges feel tacky and resist gentle pulling; no visible gap around the perimeter
◇During frying: bubbling around the edges is vigorous at entry, then steadies to a moderate sizzle — sustained aggressive bubbling after 90 seconds means the oil temperature has dropped, raise heat
◇Finished panucho: taps like a hard shell when struck lightly with tongs; golden-brown across the full surface with no pale patches
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The dishes this one teaches you, across the cuisines — on every recipe.
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IV

What to Pour

Pouring for South Australia ·

The pairing
Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Riesling
Ancient Lakes Vineyard — Cave B · Ancient Lakes
Not yet stocked in South Australia
Wine
From South Australia
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz
Henschke · Barossa Valley
Not yet stocked in South Australia
Wine
Without alcohol
Sencha — Sencha Nagashima Organic
Isagawa tea farming cooperative
Not yet stocked in South Australia
Tea

Why each one works is part of membership — Enter · from $49 a year →

The whole pairing
Pillar V
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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