Pasta con le Sarde Siciliana

Steep the saffron in 4 tbsp of warm water and set aside, so the threads have time to bleed their colour and perfume fully into the liquid rather than sitting raw in the sauce. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, blanch the wild fennel fronds briefly, remove with a slotted spoon, and reserve the blanching water to cook the pasta — that water is now carrying fennel flavour and will season the bucatini from the inside out. Chop the blanched fennel roughly and set aside.

Warm the olive oil in a wide pan over a medium flame, add the sliced onion, and cook gently until soft and translucent, without colour, so the onion sweetens rather than turns sharp. Add the one-third portion of sardines designated for the sauce and cook, pressing and stirring, until they have dissolved entirely into the onion-and-oil base — no discrete pieces should remain, because it is this melted fish base, not the whole sardines added later, that gives the sauce its depth and draws the other elements together. This is where the dish lives or dies: if the sauce sardines are not fully broken down, everything layered on top will taste flat and separate.

Add the pine nuts and sultanas to the sauce and stir briefly over the heat until the sultanas have plumped and both are coated in the sardine-onion base. Pour in the saffron with its steeping liquid and add the chopped wild fennel, then allow the sauce to meld over a low flame for several minutes so the anise of the fennel and the warmth of the saffron knit into a single fragrance rather than sitting as distinct additions. The sauce should smell of the sea, anise, and warm gold spice all at once.

In a separate pan, heat a little olive oil over a medium-high flame and pan-fry the remaining whole sardines briefly on each side until just cooked through but still intact — they are a topping, not a sauce component, and the moment they begin to flake away from themselves they lose the presence they need on the finished plate. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Return the fennel blanching water to the boil, adjust the salt, and cook the bucatini or spaghetti until very firm — well short of al dente — so the pasta can finish absorbing the sauce in the pan and arrive at the correct bite without becoming soft. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the cooking water.

Add the drained pasta to the sauce pan and toss vigorously over a medium flame, adding a splash of the reserved fennel-pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce so it clings to every strand rather than pooling at the bottom. Continue until the pasta has finished cooking in the sauce and carries a firm, al dente bite throughout.

Plate the pasta and drape the pan-fried whole sardines over the top. Scatter the golden toasted breadcrumbs over the finished plate immediately before serving — they go on at the last moment so they stay crisp rather than turning to paste — standing in place of any grated cheese, which is not used in Sicilian fish pasta.