II
The Method
1
Soak the dried red chillies in warm water until fully pliable, so the flesh softens through to the core and will break down cleanly under the pestle rather than tearing into stringy shreds. Drain and squeeze out excess water. The chillies should be soft with no hard, brittle sections remaining — press one between the fingers to confirm.
2
Char the shallots whole, in their skins, directly over a flame or in a dry pan, turning them until the outer skin is blackened and the flesh inside has softened, so the heat drives a gentle sweetness and a faint smokiness into the flesh that raw shallots cannot give this paste. The skins will blister and pull away easily — this is the Southern Thai technique specific to this paste. Remove the charred outer layers and discard.
3
Pound the drained chillies with the salt in a granite mortar, so the salt acts as an abrasive that helps the fibres break apart faster and more evenly than chillies alone. Work until a coarse, fibrous paste forms with no large chilli pieces remaining — the mass should be an even, deep red and offer only slight resistance to the pestle.
4
Add the sliced fresh turmeric and pound it thoroughly into the chilli base, working until no fibrous threads or raw slices remain and the paste is uniformly yellow-orange, so the sharp, camphor-earth oils locked inside the rhizome are fully released and become part of the paste rather than sitting beside it. This is where the dish lives or dies: turmeric powder cannot replicate what fresh kamin releases only under sustained pounding. The colour should be vivid, almost luminous, and the smell sharp and earthy.
5
Add the charred, peeled shallots and pound until they are fully incorporated, so no pockets of watery shallot liquid remain pooled at the base of the mortar to thin the paste and weaken its structure. The mixture should be cohesive and hold together as a single mass.
6
Add the kapi and dried shrimp and pound until both are fully absorbed into the paste, so the fermented, salt-deep character of the kapi binds with the chilli and turmeric base rather than sitting as a separate layer — under-pounding here leaves the paste flat and divided. The finished paste should be dense, sticky, and aromatic, with the fermented shrimp note coming forward clearly; taste a small amount pressed on the back of a spoon to confirm the salt-fermented-earthy character is pronounced.
7
The finished paste should be smooth enough to disperse evenly into sour liquid — tamarind water or green mango — without visible lumps. Press a small quantity between the fingers; it should hold together and feel homogeneous, not granular. Store covered and refrigerated if not using immediately.