Pieds de Porc Sainte-Ménehould — Crusted Pig's Trotters

Pieds de porc Sainte-Ménehould is one of the great French offal preparations — pig's trotters braised for so long that the bones can be eaten along with the meat and skin, then breaded and grilled or fried until shatteringly crisp outside and gelatinously tender within. The dish takes its name from the town of Sainte-Ménehould in Champagne, where the preparation is legendary. The process requires patience measured in hours, not minutes. Split the trotters lengthwise (or have the butcher do this). Wrap each half in muslin tied with string (this holds the shape together during the long braise). Place in a large pot with aromatics: mirepoix, bouquet garni, white wine, and water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer (85°C — never boil, which causes the gelatinous tissue to disintegrate into the liquid) and cook for 6-8 hours. At this point, the collagen has fully converted to gelatin, the bones have softened (the calcium has leached into the cooking liquid — a mild acid from the wine accelerates this), and the entire trotter is a trembling mass of richness. Carefully unwrap the trotters (they are fragile). Cool under light pressure to firm the gelatin slightly. When ready to serve: brush with Dijon mustard, roll in fresh breadcrumbs mixed with minced parsley, press firmly. Grill under a salamander or in a hot pan with clarified butter for 3-4 minutes per side until the crust is golden and shatteringly crisp. The contrast between the brittle, golden crust and the molten, gelatinous interior is extraordinary. Serve with sauce diable (spiced vinegar reduction) or sauce ravigote.