Rajas con Crema (Roasted Poblano Strips in Crema — Side Dish)

Rajas con Crema is one of the most elegant and versatile preparations in the Mexican kitchen: strips of fire-roasted poblano chilli braised gently in Mexican crema with onion and garlic, finished with melted cheese. The dish functions simultaneously as a taco filling, a quesadilla stuffing, a side dish for grilled meats, and a sauce base. Its simplicity — five or six ingredients executed with care — is its virtue. The poblano chillies are the centre of everything. They must be fire-roasted directly over a gas flame or under a broiler until the skin is completely blackened on all sides, sealed in a bag or bowl for 15 minutes, then peeled clean under running water. Any remaining charred skin has a bitter aftertaste that will dominate the finished dish. The peeled chillies are seeded, deveined, and cut into strips approximately 1cm wide — the term rajas means 'strips' or 'slashes.' The onion — white, halved, and sliced thinly across the grain — is sautéed in a knob of butter or lard until completely softened and beginning to caramelise. Garlic is added and cooked for one further minute. The poblano strips are added and turned gently in the fat to coat. Mexican crema (a cultured cream slightly thinner than crème fraîche with a mild tang) is poured over and the heat reduced to the lowest setting. The mixture simmers very gently for five to ten minutes — the crema must not boil or it will break into a greasy, curdled mess. Oaxacan quesillo or Manchego is added in the final minute and allowed to melt into the crema, thickening it slightly and binding everything together. Corn is sometimes added for sweetness and body. Rajas con crema served with warm corn tortillas and black beans is one of the most beloved vegetarian meals in central Mexico.