Rajas y elote en crema (poblano and corn in cream sauce)

Place each poblano chile directly over a gas flame or live charcoal. Turn with tongs as each face blackens. Roast until the skin is uniformly charred and the flesh has softened — approximately 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly, and allow to steam for 10 minutes. Peel away the charred skin; some residual char may remain and is desirable. Remove the seeds and veins, then slice the flesh into strips (rajas) approximately 1 cm wide. The finished rajas carry the smoke of the flame — this is the defining element of the dish.

Warm the oil or lard in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent — the onion should yield no resistance when pressed and carry no raw bite.

Add the garlic and cook for one further minute until fragrant but not coloured.

Add the corn kernels to the pan. Cook over medium heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until the corn is just tender and no longer raw at the centre — a kernel pressed between thumb and forefinger should give without resistance. Do not skip this step; raw corn releases starch into the cream.

Add the poblano rajas and stir to combine with the onion and corn. Nestle the epazote leaves into the mixture. Pour in the crema mexicana. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting — the surface should barely move, never boil. Cook for 3 minutes, then lift out and discard the epazote. The sauce should coat a spoon in a thin, even layer; if it has tightened to a paste, add a small measure of water or additional crema. Taste and correct for salt.