II
The Method
1
Combine the ground pork with the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, ginger, egg, and cornstarch. Mix briefly with the hands until the seasonings are incorporated — stop the moment the mixture coheres. Over-mixing develops the protein strands and will produce a rubbery rather than tender result. The mixture is ready when it holds together without visible dry patches.
2
Wet both hands thoroughly. Divide the mixture into exactly four equal portions — the number is the symbolism of the dish and must not be altered. Roll each portion between the palms with firm, steady pressure into a perfect sphere. Re-wet the hands between each ball. The surface should be smooth and tight, with no cracks; a cracked surface will open during braising.
3
Heat a shallow depth of neutral oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Sear each meatball, turning carefully, until the exterior is golden and set on all sides. This step seals the shape so the balls hold perfectly round through the long braise. Remove and set aside.
4
If using napa cabbage leaves, lay them across the base of a clay pot or heavy lidded casserole. Arrange the four meatballs in a single layer in the vessel — they should sit close but not touching. This is where the dish lives or dies: the four balls are placed now and must not be moved again during cooking; disturbing them risks breaking the shape that is the entire point of the dish.
5
Combine the braising liquid: water or stock, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and sugar. Pour around — not over — the meatballs so the liquid comes roughly halfway up their sides. Bring to a bare simmer, cover tightly, and reduce to the lowest possible heat. Braise for a minimum of 90 minutes. The collagen in the pork fat must convert fully to gelatin; a short braise will not achieve the correct texture.
6
After 90 minutes, uncover and check the sauce. It should have reduced to a glossy, rich brown that coats the meatballs. If the sauce is thin, remove the meatballs carefully, reduce the liquid over medium heat until it gleams and thickens slightly, then spoon it over the balls. The meatballs themselves should be deep mahogany, yielding under the gentlest pressure, and surrounded by sauce with a lacquered sheen.
7
Bring the clay pot directly to the table. The dish is served in its cooking vessel — the presentation maintains the celebratory symbolism of the four joys.