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West Vancouver · Metro Vancouver
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Lobster Tails in Charred Chile Sauce

Langosta en relleno negro is a coastal reworking of the great Yucatecan turkey dish, transplanted from the inland table to the fishing village of San Felipe on the Ría Lagartos. Minced lobster meat is bound with sofrito blackened by recado negro (k'úum chak, the charred-chile paste), packed back into the raw shells with a hard-boiled egg yolk at the opening, sealed with a small flour dough cap, and poached in the same dark sauce. The leftover stuffing mixture is bundled into cheesecloth, cooked as a separate loaf in the simmering sauce, and sliced into wedges at the table. The result is simultaneously austere and dramatic — jet-black broth, flame-red shell, ivory stuffing — eaten by folding pieces of relleno into a warm tortilla with a spoonful of the sauce. The recipe passed through at least three generations of the Marrufo family of San Felipe and dates, by family account, to around 1890.

The recipe is being written into the canon.

I

Quality Hierarchy

01
RESERVE: Live Panulirus argus landed same day at Río Lagartos or San Felipe docks, shells intact
02
STANDARD: Fresh-frozen whole Caribbean spiny lobster tails, thawed overnight under refrigeration
03
ACCEPTABLE: High-quality frozen tails from a reputable Gulf fishery, never warm-water farmed
II

Sensory Tests

◇Sofrito is ready when it pulls cleanly from the pan bottom and smells of roasted chile rather than raw tomato
◇Recado negro is fully incorporated when the mixture is uniformly matte black with no brown streaks
◇Stuffed tails are cooked when the filling feels firm under gentle pressure and a probe at the centre reads 63°C (145°F)
◇Broth is correctly built when it coats a spoon lightly and smells of charred chile, seafood, and epazote simultaneously
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IV

What to Pour

Pouring for British Columbia · ·

The pairing
Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Riesling
Ancient Lakes Vineyard — Cave B · Ancient Lakes
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Wine
From British Columbia
Fort Berens Riesling
Fort Berens Estate Winery · Lillooet
Liberty Wine Merchants · Vancouver →See all 2 →
Wine
Without alcohol
Loop Lime Lemon Sour
BSA (Brasserie St-Antoine)
Not yet stocked in British Columbia
Non-alcoholic

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The whole pairing
Pillar V
Origin and lineage are part of membership.
Where the dish comes from and how it came to be — on every recipe.
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