Baccalà Mantecato Veneziano

Venice, Veneto. A cicchetti tradition of the bacari (wine bars) of the Rialto and the calli of Venice. The salt cod trade was central to Venetian commerce from the 15th century and mantecato is the definitive Venetian expression of that ingredient.

Baccalà mantecato is a Venetian cicchetti classic: desalted salt cod (baccalà, not stoccafisso) poached until tender, then beaten vigorously with olive oil drizzled in a thin stream until it becomes a smooth, creamy, white mousse — the 'mantecatura' (creaming) technique that is the same word used for finishing risotto. Served at room temperature on small slices of grilled or toasted white polenta. The texture should be light and spreadable, not heavy — the olive oil must be completely emulsified.

Properly emulsified, the mantecato is light, creamy, mildly salty, with a clean fish flavour that is never aggressive. The olive oil provides fat and a subtle fruitiness. On polenta, the slight bitterness of the grilled polenta crust balances the richness of the cod. A dish of deceptive simplicity and skill.