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Barolo

Piemonte, the Langhe hills around Barolo and Serralunga d'Alba, province of Cuneo

‹ The Beverage Tradition

I

Origin

Barolo is the red wine of the Langhe in southern Piemonte, made from the Nebbiolo grape (Vitis vinifera) and named for the village of Barolo in the province of Cuneo. Waverley Root, in The Food of Italy, treats it among the great wines of Piemonte and places it in the hill country of the Langhe, where Nebbiolo is the principal red vine. It belongs to the tradition of the Piemontese table, where it accompanies the long-cooked and truffled dishes of the autumn and winter.

II

Description

Barolo is a dry red wine made solely from Nebbiolo grapes grown within the delimited zone of the Langhe, and it is made to be aged. It is deep in structure, high in tannin and acidity, and usually strong in alcohol, and it is kept for long years in wood and bottle before it is ready to drink. In the glass it is typically a garnet colour that turns toward orange at the rim with age, and Root's account stresses its weight and its capacity to improve over time.

III

The Thread

—Both are single-grape red wines of a narrow hill zone, where the vineyard and the year determine the character more than any blending. Burgundy is made from Pinot Noir (Vitis vinifera) and is lighter in tannin, while Barolo is firmer and demands longer ageing. French · (Burgundy)
—Both rest on the principle that a red wine of high acidity and tannin is held for years in wood and bottle until it softens and gains complexity. Rioja is built on Tempranillo (Vitis vinifera) and carries the sweet spice of long oak ageing, whereas Barolo keeps a more austere, tarry and floral structure. Spanish · (La · Rioja)
—Both are powerful red wines from steep hillside vineyards, made from a single variety and valued for the ability to age over decades. Hermitage is made from Syrah (Vitis vinifera) and is darker and more peppery, while Barolo is paler in colour yet firmer in tannin. French · (Rhône)
IV

Flavour Context

Barolo is drunk with the rich, slow dishes of Piemonte: braised and roast meats, game, aged cheeses and dishes finished with the white truffle of Alba (Tuber magnatum). The structural reason is plain. Its high tannin and acidity cut through fat and protein, and its weight stands up to concentrated sauces that would overwhelm a lighter wine. It is less suited to delicate fish or fresh, light preparations, where its tannin would dominate.

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