Bokbunja-ju (복분자주)

Bokbunja-ju is the wine of the Korean black raspberry, Rubus coreanus, a bramble that grows wild on the hillsides of the south-west and is cultivated chiefly in North Jeolla Province, with Gochang the best-known centre. The berry has long been gathered in early summer and kept as a country remedy and a household fruit, and the wine is made today by farm households and licensed breweries alike. It belongs to the Korean tradition of fruit wines and infused liquors, which stands beside the grain wines of makgeolli and cheongju.

Bokbunja-ju is a deep purple-red wine made from the ripe berries of Rubus coreanus, fermented with sugar and yeast or, in the household manner, steeped with sugar and a clear spirit. The berries are small, dark and seedy, with a pronounced tartness and a heavy, jammy fragrance. The finished wine is sweet, viscous and richly coloured, usually between 13 and 19 per cent alcohol by volume, and it is poured in small glasses. The home method of layering berries with sugar in a clean glass jar, then adding soju, yields a related infusion that matures over several months.

Bokbunja-ju is drunk chilled or at cool room temperature in small glasses, alone or with a plate of fruit, nuts, or rich grilled meat such as samgyeopsal. Its sweetness and acidity cut through fat and salt, and its tannic edge clears the palate between bites. It is also served at celebratory tables, where a sweet wine is the courteous choice for guests who do not favour the sharper spirits.