Cha yen (Thai iced tea)

Cha yen, literally 'cold tea', belongs to the street and market tradition of Bangkok, where it is sold from carts and stalls in plastic bags and tall glasses. It is a drink of the city's hawkers and noodle shops, made by those who brew strong tea in bulk through the day and sweeten it for the heat. David Thompson records it among the street drinks of Thailand, as part of a tradition in which sweetness, ice and cold drinks answer the climate of the central plains.

Cha yen is black tea brewed very strong, usually from a blend of Camellia sinensis var. assamica leaves sold as Thai tea mix, which is often coloured orange and scented with spices such as star anise. The infusion is sweetened with sugar and thickened with condensed milk while hot, then poured over a full glass of crushed ice and finished with evaporated milk or coconut milk floated on top. The result is an opaque, russet-orange drink, rich, sweet and lightly perfumed, with the tannin of the tea holding against the milk.

Cha yen is drunk with the fiery, salty dishes of the street, such as grilled meats, som tam and fried snacks, and with sweets of coconut and sticky rice. The structural reason is contrast: the cold, sweet, milky drink soothes the heat of chilli and cuts through fat, while the tannin of the tea cleans the palate between mouthfuls.