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French · IV The Method

Frenching and trimming a rack of lamb

France, classical kitchen

‹ The Method

I

Origin

Frenching, the clearing of the rib bones of meat, fat and membrane, belongs to French butchery and to the professional kitchen, where the carré d'agneau is roasted whole or divided into côtes. Jacques Pépin sets the method out step by step in Complete Techniques, and it is carried today by the French butcher and the trained cook alike.

II

Description

The cut is the carré d'agneau, the rib section of the lamb (Ovis aries), usually of eight ribs, taken from the best end of the loin and sold with the chine bone removed or loosened. Trimming removes the excess surface fat and the sinew, leaving a thin even layer over the eye of the meat, the noix. Frenching then strips the upper part of each rib bone of meat, fat and membrane, so that the bones stand clean and white above the eye. The trimmings are kept for the fond, for a jus or for mince.

III

The Thread

—Two racks are frenched and tied into a circle, so that the clean bones form a crown. The principle of cleaning the rib is the same, but the crown is a presentation for the table, whereas the single French rack is a cut for slicing into côtes. American
—The lamb cutlets are cut from the rack and the bone is left clean as a handle before the meat is breaded and fried. The shared principle is the bare rib as a handle; the difference is that the Italian cutlet is separated and coated, while the French rack is roasted whole. Italian
—Two frenched racks of lamb are stood against each other with the bones interlaced, so that the clean ribs form an arch over the roast. The cleaning of the bone is the same as for the French carré; the difference is that the guard of honour is a two-rack presentation carved at the table, while the French rack is commonly roasted singly and cut into côtes. British
IV

Flavour Context

The roasted rack is served with a jus made from the lamb trimmings and bones, with flageolet beans, a gratin dauphinois, white haricots or a purée of vegetables, and often with rosemary, thyme and garlic. It is drunk with a red wine of structure, such as a Pauillac or a Saint-Émilion, because the tannin meets the fat and the sweet flesh of the lamb, which is delicate and needs a wine that cleans without overpowering it.

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