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Thai · VI The Beverage Tradition

Nam krajiap (roselle drink)

Central Thailand, Bangkok

‹ The Beverage Tradition

I

Origin

Nam krajiap is the Thai infusion of the dried calyces of roselle, Hibiscus sabdariffa, sweetened and served cold. It belongs to the family of sweet, non-alcoholic drinks made in the Thai household and sold by street vendors and market stalls, alongside nam manao (lime drink) and nam bai toey (pandan drink). It is carried by home cooks and drink sellers across the central plains, who prepare it in large batches and keep it chilled.

II

Description

The drink is made from the fleshy, deep crimson calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa, simmered in water until the colour and tartness pass into the liquid, then strained and sweetened with sugar. It is clear and ruby red, with a pronounced acidity that the sugar rounds without masking. It is served over ice, and a small pinch of salt is sometimes added to sharpen the fruit. The calyces are used dried, which keeps well and gives a more concentrated colour than fresh.

III

The Thread

—Both are infusions of dried Hibiscus sabdariffa calyces, sweetened and served over ice so that tartness and sugar balance each other. The Mexican drink is usually steeped and left cold without extended simmering, and carries no salt, while the Thai version is simmered and may be lightly salted. Mexican
—Karkade is made from the same dried roselle calyces, steeped in water and sweetened, and is drunk hot or cold. It shares the principle of extracting colour and acidity from the dried flower, but is commonly served hot as well as chilled, where nam krajiap is chiefly a cold drink. Egyptian
—Caribbean sorrel is a drink of dried roselle calyces steeped with sugar and sweet spices, then chilled. The principle of a tart red infusion rounded with sugar is the same, but the Caribbean version is spiced, notably with ginger and clove, where the Thai drink is kept plain. Caribbean
IV

Flavour Context

Nam krajiap is drunk cold on its own, and is taken beside rich, salty or fried dishes, where its acidity and chill cleanse the palate. The structural reason is contrast: the sour-sweet liquid cuts fat and relieves the heat of chilli-laden food, much as the other sweet drinks of the Thai table do.

Pillars V — VII
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